My photography students and photo friends frequently ask me how to resize a photograph. It’s super easy in Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw.
Why would you need to resize a photograph?
A teacher like me asks that you submit homework at a particular size and ppi. (PPI is pixels per inch).
A photo contest needs the images to be a particular size.
Your camera clubs asks that photo be submitted a certain size.
You want to email a photo to someone but the photo out of the camera is too big.
You’re building a Powerpoint or Keynote program and a lot of images to be resized so they project well.
Photos on your website need to be a particular size.
From Lightroom Library, right click on the image or images, and select Export.
In Bridge, select the photo or photos to export (or save), right-click to open in Adobe Camera Raw. Once in Adobe Camera Raw, select the image(s) and select the tiny “save” icon. You’ll see that when you hover your mouse over one photo.
What size photo do you need?
Powerpoint or Keynote images look best when resized to 1280 pixels on the longest side at 96 pixels/inch resolution in jpg
Instagram likes 500 pixels square at 96 pixels/inch in jpg
Printing? Use the sizes recommended by your printer or printing company. You might need a tiff so do some research.
Webpage photos vary but jpgs at 800 pixels on the longest side at 96 pixels/inch show well and don’t take too long to load
Short lesson that I hope answers some of your questions. Comments welcome below.
The Photoshop program is becoming less and less needed. At one time, all the tools were in Photoshop.
Then Adobe made Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) and moved Photoshop’s photography tools into sliders. We had everything we needed to process our photos in one place. Adobe gave us Bridge as a “light table” where we could layout all our photos and work with them.
Then Adobe made Elements and put photography tools into sliders.
Then Adobe made Lightroom and put those same photography tools into sliders. Lightroom took the Bridge concept to a new level. Lightroom’s Library is a database so you can layout lots of photos from different folders onto a “light table” and work with them.
Lightroom’s Library is super-powerful and super-complicated. I recommend the Scott Kelby book to learn and understand Library. Life gets complicated when you update computers, work on two external hard drives, merge or split catalogues, etc. Sometimes you have to call in an expert because the Library is a mess.
Thanks to Adobe we have three programs to process our photos.
· Bridge/Adobe Camera Raw,
· Elements, or
The one you choose is up to you. Bridge/Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom do exactly the same thing when it comes to processing. The difference is interface.
Bridge/Adobe Camera Raw lets you file your photos the way you want.
Lightroom files your photos for you and you need to understand what it’s doing. Hence the need for Scott Kelby’s book, lots of online videos, The Lightroom Queen, etc. I tell people on my workshops “I will not help you find your lost photos in Lightroom. I will help you process your photos in Lightroom.” If you use Lightroom, take time to understand the Library feature. In my experience, this happens in only 25% of Lightroom users.
Personally, I find the Bridge/Adobe Camera Raw combination easier to use. I copy my pictures from my card to a folder under My Pictures, open Bridge, go to that folder, start processing. Simple and easy. The 25% who understand Lightroom’s Library say the same thing about Lightroom. (The Lightroom versus Adobe Camera Raw argument is amazing among photographers. More powerful than Mac vs. PC or Canon vs. Nikon.)
But what about Photoshop? Photoshop has Layers and we still occasionally need layers. There are still photographers who use layers to make vignettes even though we have a slider for vignette in Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw. There are still photographers who use Layers to open shadows despite the great shadow slider in Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom.
Layers in Photoshop are needed for a lot of advanced processing. Merging star trails, for example. Merging lightning strikes for a more dramatic photo, for example. Photos with light painting need layers. We can make a mat for our photos in Layers. Good stuff happens in Layers and we can only get that in Photoshop.
At one time, we could only get panoramas with Layers. Now we have a feature in Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw for that.
I’ll offer a Photoshop Layers class in the coming weeks. Layers is a powerful tool but has a steep learning curve. I’m not a master but know how to get what I need – most of the time.
I’m working through the thousands of photos I took in Spain during my recent photo tour to Andalusia and Barcelona.
Buildings were our most common subject. Often it was hard to get right in front of the building. Many times we were shooting straight up when we really needed to be higher like on the second floor of the building across the street.
The Transform tool in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom is really coming in handy.
Take a look at this before and after:
The Transform tool is activated in the photo above and ready to go.
Transform tool to the rescue.
Have you used the Transform tool? Does it work well for you?
When traveling, we don’t always get to choose when we can be at a location. Harsh light can get in the way of a good photo. That’s why I suggest you make friends with the Shadow slider in Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom, or Elements.
Some say that HDR, or high-dynamic range, is a great way to remove tourists from our photos taken in busy vacation locations. Well, maybe sometimes.
First some explanations. HDR is high-dynamic range photography. Our eye sees 22-stops of light but the camera can capture about 5-stops. HDR images allow us to photograph details in the shadows while still maintaining details in the highlights.
To create a HDR photo, we take 2 or more photos from the same location and vary the exposure. The examples below have been created from seven photos. The exposures range from balanced light meter to -3-stops all the way to +3-stops.
HDR software has an option to deghost or remove people. Deghosting removes people from the final photo if those people didn’t appear in the same spot in all the photos. There’s usually a scale so we can vary the intensity of deghosting. I’ve set the deghosting to maximum on each image.
You see that people are still in my photo of the busy street in San Gimignano, Italy. The only person who stood still through all seven photos was the man in the gray windbreaker on the left. Everyone else moved. The lady in the orange coat walked straight at the camera through all seven photos. The man with the umbrella walked across the scene from right to left.
In conclusion, the crowded street is still crowded with people. The different software, though, handled processing in a variety of ways.
Here are the seven photos used to build these HDR photos.