Equipment Specials from Hunt’s Photo and Video

My friends at Hunt’s Photo & Video are offering these equipment specials:

Dear Photo Friends,
Ah, Spring is in the air. Time to get out and start shooting! Following are our specials for April 2019:

We received a limited quantity of Nikon Refurbished bodies and lenses. They carry a 90 Day Nikon Warranty, but I have longer warranties and Damage Protection available. Call me now at 781-462-2383:
D7500 Body $799.99D850 Body $2,599AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR $1,899
D750 Body $1,149
AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G ED $1,399AF-S 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR $1,149Coolpix P900 $499.99Coolpix P1000 $849.99AF-S 85mm f/1.4G $1,449.99AF-S 24-120mm f/4 ED VR $599.99

If you’ve thought about getting into mirrorless here’s a great opportunity:Olympus E-M1 II with 12-40mm f/2 PRO lens $1,998.98 (reg. $2,699.98)
Lens Specials. Call me for pricing, 781-462-2383:Olympus 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO (MFT)
Olympus 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO (MFT)Panasonic Leica 100-400mm f/4-6.3 (MFT)Sigma Contemporary 150-600mm f/5-6.3 (Canon or Nikon)
Sigma Contemporary 100-400mm f/5-6.3 (Canon or Nikon) $669 with FREE UV filter
Preorder now, due in April:Nikon Z 14-30mm f/4 S $1,299.95Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S $2,299.96 (about 1/3 lighter then current DSLR model!)
The following are rumors, not official announcements. Send me your phone number if you want to be notified if and when any are announced:Olympus 150-400mm f/4.5Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L ISCanon RF 70-200mm f/2.8L ISNikon Z 50mm f/1.2 SNikon Z 14-24mm f/2.8 SNikon Z 70-200mm f/2.8 S

Used Lenses (subject to prior sale)Nikon 200-400mm f/4 VR II $3,299Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G ED $1,499Nikon 300mm f/4D $749Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art (for Nikon) $669Canon 500mm f/4L IS $3,399Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L (non IS) $849Canon 70-200mm f/4L (non IS) $499Canon 90mm f/2.8 TS-E $779Canon 45mm f/2.8 TS-E $999Zeiss Milvus 85mm f/1.4 (for Canon) $1,299Sigma 20mm f/1.4 Art (for Canon) $649

...and something else you may want to know about:
Canon has continued their printer rebate program. Now through April 30, 2019 or until supplies run out, we are offering the 
Canon Pixma PRO 10 printer at $379.99 before rebate (Canon sells it on their website for $699.99). If you purchase the printer plus a package of 13x19x50 sheets of Canon Semi-Gloss or Luster paper, $50, Canon will send you a $250 mail in rebate! This is a pigment based printer and is always reviewed very well. Your final cost is $129.99 plus the $50 paper package after mail in rebate! And don’t forget to ask me about special pricing on Monitor Calibration from Data Color and Xrite, a crucial part of the printing process!
Hunt’s is also offering an incredible special on the 
Canon Image PROGRAF Pro-1000 17″ Printer. Purchase the printer for $1,299.99, and receive an assortment worth $499.96 of 17×22″ and 13×19″ Canon paper! You then mail in for your $300 rebate. Your final cost is $999.99 for the printer with $499.96 worth of FREE paper. Supplies definitely limited on this one. Call me now to reserve yours. Rebate runs through April 30, 2019!

In order to take advantage of these specials please call, Alan Samiljan, at 781-462-2383 to place your order and reference this email. As always, UPS Ground shipping is FREE in the Lower 48. My regular hours are 8:30-5:00pm eastern, Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday.

Hunt’s Photo & Video

100 Main St.

Melrose, MA 02176

(781) 462-2383 

asamiljan@huntsphoto.com

My hours are Monday, Tuesday, Thursday & Friday, 8:30-5:00pm eastern

Long-term Storage Solutions

A friend wrote:  My “new” 1 Tb laptop I bought for doing PS Raw is almost out of memory. I realize the new full crop files are much larger than the crop frame 70D images but I think the real problem is redundant storage of images. Windows 10 automatically dumps them into their “My Pictures” & I’ve been saving the jpg’s in another pictures file. Should I buy a storage so I can free up some memory by moving my PS Raw &/or jpg files out of the C drive on my laptop?

My Answer:  I’m only using an external hard drive for my photos and processing.  I have a Western Digital My Passport with 2 or 3TB of storage.  I put all my photos on that drive.  That way the computer never sees them and puts them somewhere.

I have another external hard drive that I use for back-ups when in the field.  That gets a back-up and then might go in my suitcase versus my computer bag on the way home.

(When I bought my latest Mac, the sales person asked me what I was going to use it for.  I said photos but I was going to only put them on the external hard drive.  He said that was the way most people were moving.)

That external hard drive can then be plugged into my big computer at home for more processing.

When I’m totally finished processing a trip, I copy all those files (RAW, jpg, and xmp) to the Drobo on my desk that I can grab in the event of a hurricane.    All photos are stored in the cloud via Backblaze.

That means I have the photos on the hard drive while I’m processing.  There’s a temporary backup on another hard drive but it’s just a temp backup.  Once I’m finished with the processing, the files get moved to the Drobo for permanent storage and  then the cloud.  Just in case, I also copy them to another external hard drive that is a duplicate copy of the files on the Drobo.

Once the photos on the working hard drive have been copied, then I delete them.  I also delete them from the temporary backup.  I always do this with the help of another person to cross-check and verify that the photos are really copied to both the Drobo and the copy hard drives.

That’s four hard drives:

  • Hard Drive #1:  For working on photos in the field on my laptop. Pictures are in folders labeled “Ireland 2018 day 1”, “Ireland 2018 day 2”, etc.
  • Hard Drive #2:  A back-up of the above. Folders called the same as above.
  • Hard Drive #3:  Working files and photos on my big desktop in the office.
  • Master storage of all processed and finished photos in individual folders on the Drobo. Folders have the same names as above.
  • Drobo is copied to external hard drives (#4) as master storage that can be stored off-site. Folders exactly the same as on the Drobo.

I would recommend you copy all your photos to a working hard drive.  That would be #1.  Copy them again to #2 hard drive.   Then create a Master Storage unit with lots of space for #3.  That’s duplicated on #4.

Redundant files?!?!?!?!  Welcome to the world of photography.  This is an ongoing issue.  Concentrate on getting it clean as you can.  Then get the back-ups.  Then try to stay on top of it.  I swear these files multiply at night.

External Hard Drives and Photo Processing

I’m putting all photos on external hard drives now.  Photos are so big that they take up a lot of space.  I am not putting photos on my laptop’s hard drive or my desktop’s hard drive. All photos are on external hard drive.

I’ve gone pretty extreme. My iMac is my main desktop computer. It has a 4TB hard drive attached that has photos, documents, etc.  All documents were moved off the iMac’s hard drive to the external hard drive.

My Macbook Pro has a 4TB hard drive that has the same.  I work on photos in the field and at home on the laptop.  No documents or photos are on the computer’s internal hard drive.

Once I am finished processing a folder of photos or all the photos from a trip, those photos get copied to a Drobo 15TB storage unit in a folder.  Those folders are numbered and named.  The folder might be “#1057 Costa Rica 2018 A_C”. 

The photos are then imported to my database (or Lightroom) for the catalogue.  This means that the only photos on the big 15TB storage device are finished photos.  The photos on my laptop or desktop hard drives are unfinished. 

I try to get photos off the desktop and laptop hard drives as soon as I can.  Doesn’t always work because some trips/outings take longer to process than others.  I try though.

I’m now using BackBlaze to put my photos in the cloud.  My MacBook Pro wants to put everything in the cloud so some photos are in iCloud. 

Applications like Photoshop, Bridge, Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom, Word, Excel, etc are on each computer’s hard drive. It’s faster to use software that resides on my computer. I also have the software where I can use it if we have a power failure, hurricane, or disruption to the internet like in Africa or Peru.

So – in a nutshell – each computer has an external hard drive.  Photos are processed and then moved to the Drobo 15TB storage unit.  Those photos are the master catalogue.

I’ve created Favorite folders that reside on the external hard drive. These are a nice way to get photos quickly to attach to an email or upload to social media.

Bird Photography: Flash & No Flash

It always amazes me how much impact the flash can have on photos of birds in the forest.

Palm tanager; with a flash Costa Rica; Sarapiqui
Palm tanager; with no flash; Costa Rica; Sarapiqui

Both were photographed with the following settings: Aperture Priority, F/8, 1/400 sec shutter speed, ISO 800, Canon 580 flash, 100-400mm lens.

The flash is set to TTL and high-speed.

Canon EOS R: My Test Drive

Thanks to the folks at Hunt’s Photo & Video I got to test drive the new Canon EOS R.  This is Canon’s first entry into the full-frame mirrorless camera market.  I am highly impressed.

The camera has a great feel in the hand.  There’s plenty of room for your hand and right thumb giving a more robust feel than the Canon M-series cameras.

The swivel screen on the back of the camera is great for ground-level macro photos.

Hand-feel and ergonomics — give the camera an A+.  The electronic viewfinder is the brightest I’ve seen.  The touch screen on the back is quick and responsive.

Yet, how about the photos.  Last year, I pushed the Canon M-series camera pretty hard when I gave it a test drive so I thought I’d do the same with the EOS R.

Notice in the photos above that there’s no fringing on the leaves when the photo is enlarged to 200%.  The grain structure looks good.

Let’s try another test.

Above is a twilight photo with the Canon EOS R on a tripod.  Enlarged to 200% on the right.

Same scene but photographed with a Canon 5D Mark IV.

In low light I can’t see any difference between the photos taken with the Canon EOS R and the Canon 5D Mark IV.

A simple comparison of photos.  The photo taken with the Canon EOS R is on the left.  Canon 5D Mark IV on the right. Both are enlarged to 100%.   I can’t see any difference in quality.

I like starbursts in my photos.  How does the EOS R’s 24-105mm lens work in the starburst category?  Not bad!

Conclusions:

  • The Canon EOS R is a “real” camera on par with the Canon 5D Mark IV.
  • There does not appear to be any differences in the picture quality between the two cameras.
  • This is not a point-and-shoot or lower quality camera.
  • The Canon EOS R is going to make a lot of people rethink their mirrorless options.
  • First-time camera owners might skip the DSLR body in favor is this mirrorless.

I’m impressed with the Canon EOS R on static subjects.  How does it handle action?  Stay tuned.

Check out the great deals at Hunt’s Photo & Video on Canon EOS R and other products.

Here’s a video I created on the Canon EOS R.  Take a look.

HDR or Use the Shadow & Highlight Slider

I used to hear photographers say they didn’t like the look of HDR (high dynamic range) photos.  Software progressed and it got to where an HDR photo was perfectly natural.  We got a photo that looked like what we saw with our eyes versus a cartoonish image.

Things continue to progress in the photo processing world.  Today, the Shadow and Highlight sliders in Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom are doing what HDR used to do.

Below you see two images taken in the historic district of Sibiu, Romania.  One is HDR — a blend of seven images using Nik by DxO.  The other is straight out of the camera with the highlights properly exposed.  Can you see any difference?

Sibiu, Romania, historic center.
This is the HDR image.  Seven exposures blended together in Nik HDR Efex Pro by DxO.

Sibiu, Romania, historic center.
This image was captured in the camera.  The exposure was set for the bright area at the top or 2-stops under-exposed.  

Sibiu, Romania, historic center.
Here’s the above image before processing.  Two-stops under-exposed so the highlight were fine but the shadows appear to be worthless.

Sibiu blog postKAC
This is a screen grab of the image being processed.  Notice that the Highlight slider is moved to the left to tone down the tower and sky.  The Shadow slider is moved all the way to the right to bring out the details in the shadows.    I’m using HDR less and less thanks to these great tools in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom.

HDR made from seven images                      processing as above

 

HDR made from seven images                      processing as above

Give this concept a try next time you find yourself photographing a contrasty scene.  Get the highlights perfectly exposed.  Then bring out the shadows later with the Shadow slider in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom.

Have you tried this already?  Success?