In May of this year, Adobe gave us the Texture slider. You can find this in Adobe’s Lightroom Classic or Adobe Camera Raw.
The Texture slider enhances or reduces texture in a photo. Texture would be bird feathers, animal fur, tree bark, alligator skin, stucco, etc. The Texture slider does not enhance details in our nice blurry backgrounds. The Texture slider is a game changer on certain photos.
I’ve been a real champion of the Clarity slider since that tool was introduced by Adobe. Almost all my processing began with Clarity slider to 20, Vibrance to 20, and Saturation to 20. “Go to CVS first” was the line we used in class.
The Clarity slider, though, worked on details and textures throughout the image. Minor details in the blurry background were often enhanced.
Texture slider only works on textures. It’s a pretty smart tool that can really bring out key details in our photos.
The Texture slider is also available under the Adjustment Brush tool. This allows us to enhance or reduce the texture in one area of a photo.
Pretty neat tool. Give it a try. I’m sure you will like it and find many uses for the Texture slider.
Texture on the left image. Clarity on the right image.
I used to hear photographers say they didn’t like the look of HDR (high dynamic range) photos. Software progressed and it got to where an HDR photo was perfectly natural. We got a photo that looked like what we saw with our eyes versus a cartoonish image.
Things continue to progress in the photo processing world. Today, the Shadow and Highlight sliders in Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom are doing what HDR used to do.
Below you see two images taken in the historic district of Sibiu, Romania. One is HDR — a blend of seven images using Nik by DxO. The other is straight out of the camera with the highlights properly exposed. Can you see any difference?
Sibiu, Romania, historic center.
Sibiu, Romania, historic center.
HDR made from seven images processing as above
HDR made from seven exposures
Straight processing as above
HDR made from seven images processing as above
Give this concept a try next time you find yourself photographing a contrasty scene. Get the highlights perfectly exposed. Then bring out the shadows later with the Shadow slider in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom.
I was in Ireland recently leading a photo tour. A favorite location of mine for light painting at night is Burrishoole Abbey in County Mayo.
We set our cameras on tripods, composed the shot, focused, and then set our exposures for 30 seconds. Then I “Painted” the outside of the building with an amber flashlight. In one 30-second exposure I might cover half the building. We reminded the group that they would use layers in Photoshop to get a photo of the entire building illuminated in amber light.
Toward the end of our shoot at Burrishoole, I decided to make a change. I told the group to leave their f/stops at 22, change the ISO to 800, and take a 4-minute exposure using Bulb. We took one photo to check exposure. Personally, I needed to change my f/stop to f/9.
Then we clicked the shutters and left them open for 4-minutes. During that time, I painted the building one more time with the amber flashlight. Notice I had enough time to go inside and paint the window openings.
Each photo is a bit different but the last was much easier to make. Many photographers don’t like Photoshop layers or don’t want to learn layers. Personally, I think layers is a super powerful tool but do understand the learning curve can be steep.
Next time you do light painting, consider using a very long exposure as an alternative to layers.
I love infrared photos but somehow I never seemed to get around to having an old camera converted to infrared. So earlier this year I got an email ad from Singh-Ray Filters advertising their infrared filter. My hand grabbed my computer mouse without my will and order the filter. Before I knew it, Singh-Ray’s IR 690 filter was heading to my doorstep.
The filter arrived, I read some articles online, and then went out to give it a try. The photos came out RED. Yep, they were red but they were supposed to be red.
The articles I read said that the photos out of the camera would be red. I was then supposed to process with method #1, method #2, or method #3 to get an infrared image.
I tried all the methods and simply had a black-and-white image. No snowy-white grass or grass that look so great in infrared photos. I could never get anything that even remotely looked like infrared.
Out of frustration, I sent an email to the folks at Singh-Ray Filters. I got an immediate response and they put me in touch with one of their experts. That man and I exchanged photos and emails for the next two weeks. I shot photos with the filter, processed them per his instructions, but nothing worked. He paid for me to ship my filter to him so he could use it on his camera.
In the end, we found that my Canon 5D Mark IV and my Canon Rebel need a Singh-Ray 830 Infrared filter. The IR 690 filter only yields a black-and-white image after processing.
Mystery solved. Singh-Ray Filters immediately shipped me an 830 Infrared Filter and issued a credit for my 690 IR filter once they received it.
Thanks to the great customer service at Singh-Ray Filters I’m now shooting infrared photos and loving my 830 Infrared filter.
By the way, the IR 690 filter works fine on Nikon camera. We found this situation only applies to Canon cameras.
Here’s how to take a photo with the 830 Infrared Filter:
Set the camera to the Bulb exposure mode and decide which f/stop you’ll use.
Frame the shot and focus the lens.
Turn off auto-focus on the lens.
Screw the filter on the lens without moving the focus ring.
You can’t see through the IR filters.
With the camera in Bulb
Take the photo with the shutter open for about 4-minute.
Adjust based on the histogram. A bit less time if the photo is too bright or a bit more time if the photo is too dark.
Here’s my method for processing photos taken with the 830 Infrared Filter:
Open in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom
Open Hue Saturation Luminance
Move the red Luminance slider all the way to the right
Move the red Saturation slider all the way to the left
This gets rid of the red cast to the photo
Go back to the Basic Tab
Move the Exposure slider so the histogram hits the right corner
Move the Black slider so the histogram hits the left corner
Add some Contrast
Continue processing to taste
I’ve just begun shooting in infrared and processing those photos. Stay tuned. More discoveries in store.
I’m working through the thousands of photos I took in Spain during my recent photo tour to Andalusia and Barcelona.
Buildings were our most common subject. Often it was hard to get right in front of the building. Many times we were shooting straight up when we really needed to be higher like on the second floor of the building across the street.
The Transform tool in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom is really coming in handy.
Take a look at this before and after:
The Transform tool is activated in the photo above and ready to go.
Transform tool to the rescue.
Have you used the Transform tool? Does it work well for you?
When traveling, we don’t always get to choose when we can be at a location. Harsh light can get in the way of a good photo. That’s why I suggest you make friends with the Shadow slider in Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom, or Elements.
The downside to visiting the wonderful treasures of the world is that everyone else is visiting the same wonderful treasures of the world. I like to be alone or with a few close friends when I’m out seeing the sites of the world. Unfortunately, thousands of other sightseers are trying to do the same.
It’s crowded out there. Hoards of people have the time and money to visit world heritage sites and other popular destinations. It seems impossible to take a photo today without getting someone in the shot.
Photoshop to the rescue. It’s possible to take eight or ten photos of the same scene and then ask Photoshop to eliminate the people who strolled through the photo.
In the field take eight or ten photos of the same thing. Use a tripod or hold your camera steady. Space the photos a few seconds apart so no one is standing in the same location in each photo. If using a tripod, take the photos minutes apart. (Damn those people who decide to eat a sandwich while standing still out in the open. This technique won’t eliminate them.)
Later open Photoshop. Click on File>Scripts>Statistics
That leads of a new screen. Select Median at the top. Then Browse your computer for the series of images. Check “Attempt of Automatically Align Source Images.” Click OK.
Your computer will chug and churn depend on it’s age and capacity.
Here’s another one from the same location. This was taken on a busy Sunday afternoon when the plaza was filled with tourists and locals.
Here are single shots from each of the photos above. Look at these to see how the tourists have been eliminated.